How often can you put an entire outfit on ‘off the rack’ and have it fit perfectly? I mean, really? If you think about it what percentage of time does this happen for you? 100%? 90%? 50%? 20%? Never? If you answered all the time or even 90% of the time, either you are one lucky woman or you are wearing clothes that don’t fit you properly.

Yesterday, I was shopping at a fun consignment store near me and tried on a jacket. It fit perfectly. Wow! I had a moment when I thought, “Yay…It fits, I’ll get it.” Believe me, that moment was fleeting…until I remembered that I need to be sure the colors were good (check), I had other things to wear it with (check, and I wore it today on a cable TV show), and I loved it (yup!).

Is this a regular occurrence for me? No. At least 75% of anything I buy needs to be tailored in some way whether it’s taken in, taken up, let out, or redesigned in some way (which isn’t as daunting as it sounds).

When you open up to the possibility of tailoring a garment you expand your options considerably. Take something that once was so-so, apply a little well-placed nip and tuck or realigned detail, and there you have it – a garment that is made just for you. Whereas if you try to wear it ‘as is’ off the rack you end up looking like you are wearing someone else’s clothes (which, in essence, you are!).

Somehow we’ve gotten it in our heads that we should be able to go shopping, try something on, and wear it out of the store that day looking great, and if we can’t there is something wrong with us…with our bodies. Let me set the record straight. There is nothing wrong with you. Our bodies are individual. No two are exactly alike. We vary in height, weight, valleys, hills and all kinds of in between curves. To think that one garment could fit everyone who is 5’5 and 140 lbs, for instance, is fantasy!

Okay, so you can all now breathe a collective sigh of relief!

So, how do you know? What do you look for? Let me share with you a formula for shopping success once you find something that intrigues you:

• Take the garment into the dressing room and try it on.
• Complete the outfit as much as possible. In other words, if you try to evaluate a long sweater while you’re wearing shorts and a pair of sneakers, chances are really good you’ll hate it. The parts are incongruent and, as they say, “A confused mind always says no.”
• Once you have it on, decide if you like the basic look. Then look for things that aren’t quite right. Here are a few quick tips to think about:
  • Pants, skirts or sleeves are too long. This is an easy alteration. You can waste a lot of time trying to find something that fits perfectly and is the right length when a quick alteration can take care of it.
  • Pants, skirts or sleeves are too short. Check to see if there is enough seam allowance to let it down. Do it before you wear it and wash it so that there won’t be a telltale sign you let it down.
  • Too big on top. If it has sleeves, this can be a tricky alteration. If it has straps then it’s often a super quick, inexpensive alteration to have the straps adjusted so the top fits in the right places.
  • Pants are too big at the waist. This is a common concern. Women either have gapping at the waist or they have to fit their waist and then it bags at the bum. Either way, if it’s minor gapping or bagging, usually it can be tailored to fit nicely. When buying a garment you want to fit the widest part of you first (whether this is your hips, waist, shoulders or bust) and then have the rest of the garment altered. Remember, it is usually easier to take something in than out.
  • Top is too long. Have it taken up – even if it’s just a t-shirt. This is usually one of the easiest alterations and one that most people seem to overlook. It can take a garment from looking frumpy to fabulous with a quick flip of the hem.
  • Pockets that gap. I often ask myself why they put pockets in women’s trousers! More often than not they gap. And, other than putting a tissue in the pocket who stores anything there – it will just add width to the hip line which most women don’t want to do. If yours don’t gap, you’re lucky. If they do, the easiest alteration (and it will have a big positive payback) is to have the pockets removed and sewn up. Easy and clean!
• Go from the store immediately to the tailor. Too many times if you take it home first it will sit there for weeks or months waiting to go (I know, I’ve done it!).

Those are just a few tips to get your mind thinking in this way when you shop. If you immediately dismiss something because the fit is off you will lose some really great clothing possibilities. Yes, sometimes, the alteration is just too big or can’t be done and then, you can let it go with confidence. But, you will be surprised at how often a minor tweak here or there can make a major difference in how something looks and fits.

This part is really important: Always allow for alterations in your clothing budget. If you can’t afford to make the alteration, don’t buy the garment. And, yes, this is absolutely true…if you aren’t willing to spend the money on the alteration (sometimes people say, “Well, I only spent $19.99 on that top. I’m not going to spend $15 to alter it.”), then, don’t buy it. It will never look right and isn’t worth the initial $19.99 (or whatever) investment.

One more thing: If you don’t have a great tailor, ask someone who does. This is really the best way to make sure you get someone who knows what they are doing. The last thing you want to do is entrust someone with your garment and then get it back and find it is unwearable. I have seen this happen more often than I’d care to, so finding your tailor through a referral is the best way to avoid having this happen to you.

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Dear Designers:

Could I talk frankly with you for just a minute?  Like some of you, I have been in the fashion industry for a long time (going on 25 years!) and I love it.  There is, however, one critical area where our attention diverges.  While most of the fashion world is focused on very young, tall and thin women, my clients tend mostly to represent the over 40 woman.  As a result (and because I fall into this category as well), I know what she likes to wear.

Perhaps I could provide some insights to help you create your collection for next season?   I know that your heart is in the right place and you want women to look and feel beautiful but, oh dear, have you tried your designs on women over 40 who might have a few extra pounds floating around here or there and are probably more often closer to 5’4” than 5’9”?

Your goal, I’m certain, is to sell all your designs and not have them end up on the end-of-season sales rack or a consignment store with the tags still on them.  The problem is that there is a slight (and sometimes not so slight) disconnect between what we see in the stores and what is actually wearable by anyone with a little maturity.

I know you didn’t ask me but I also know from watching ‘Project Runway’ that you encourage constructive criticism, so I hope you will take this all in the kind and supportive manner in which it is given.

First of all, what I love about you:

• Thank you for making your designs for plus size and petite women. While some stores have misguidedly eliminated these departments, for those who still support them, it is wonderful to see beautiful garments for women who don’t wear the traditional sizes 2-14.
• Thank you for giving us a variety of skirt lengths, shoes with heels of varying heights and widths, and every imaginable boot style! There is something for everyone and that allows women to express their personality with comfort.
• The new version of the cowl neckline is great – very flattering and stays in place better so we don’t have to fuss with it like we did back in the 1980’s.  Definitely new and improved!
• Thank you for bringing scarves back. It’s amazing how one piece of fabric can add so much beauty, warmth and personality!

I would also like to share a few thoughts of things that women need that seem to be missing from the choices of late:

• Fabrics With Substance. This is probably the most important request of all.  That paper thin, stretchy fabric that so many shell/tank tops and t-shirts are made out of has got to go away…soon!  It is unflattering on 90% of the women who wear it (even young women), because it shows every little lump and bump even on women size 2!  It is so frustrating to find something in the perfect style and color to complete an outfit only to find out that the fabric is dreadful (and that is not an overstatement).
• Bring Brown Back. You promised!  I heard that brown was going to be a staple again this Fall but it’s not really in the stores yet.  Yes, there is some but it’s a warm chocolaty brown that only looks good on some women (like redheads, for instance).  We need more of the basic dark, dark brown that works on so many people.  (Oh, and in case you are wondering…no, black does not look good on everyone…and this becomes even more obvious once we get past of the age of 40.)
• More Jackets…Please. It makes getting dressed a little frustrating when you hyper-focus on one particular style to the exclusion of all else.  Case in point…this season’s long cardigans.  They are a great addition but do we really need 40 million of them (only a slight exaggeration, I think!).  What happens is that there’s no room left for interesting jackets for women who enjoy wearing them or need to dress professionally for work.  (And, please…we don’t need any more black or gray jackets unless, perhaps, they have super interesting details but even then there are thousands of other colors to consider!  Let’s take a risk and add some beautiful colors.  I think you’ll be pleasantly surprised).
• Taking Dresses to the Next Level.Yay for dresses with sleeves.  You have no idea how exciting this is after all these years to be able to buy a dress with sleeves.  Believe me, when it’s literally freezing outside, a sleeveless dress just doesn’t cut it.  So, two quick things about dresses.
  • When you do make sleeveless ones (there are still plenty of them out there), could you please make some short cardigan sweaters in pretty colors (enough with the black already!) to go over them.  Sure, the 20-something crowd can look trendy and cool in a long cardigan over a dress but for the rest of us, we just look and feel frumpy!
  • And, lastly, not every woman wants to (or can) wear a dress that is body hugging.  Many who have curvy hips and thighs look better with a slight A-line (no gathers at the waist, please).  They were here in abundance a season or two ago, and we loved them.  Pretty please, could we have more of these again?

These are just a few of our major requests for now.  I want to thank you in advance for considering these ideas.  If you think I am overstating this, please know that 90% of the women who get in touch with me say they can’t find anything they like out there to wear.  Sure, sometimes it’s because they need some expert guidance but sometimes it’s because the choices are limited.  I just know that together that we can remedy this, and women over 40 everywhere will thank you!

Thank you again.  Feel free to get in touch with me anytime!

With beauty, style & grace,
Ginger

This summer I was shopping at Nordstrom Rack and came across an Alberto Makali top that caught my eye. The colors were beautiful and the design was sparkly, ethereal and just plain pretty! But I hesitated…just for a split second, but I made note of the hesitation.

My momentary uncertainty intrigued me. What was keeping me from running right into the dressing room to try it on (although I did ultimately do that)? Was I limiting my options or was it really not me?

Have you done the same thing? Have you admired something or been even mildly captivated by something but just walked on by – determining from past experience or some nebulous fashion rules you think you remember hearing somewhere that it isn’t right: women over 40 shouldn’t wear it, horizontal stripes are a no-no, or anyone with hips needs to stay way far away from that style… (you get the idea)?

Here’s something to ponder: There’s a fine line between “knowing” yourself (for instance, feeling genuinely confident that harem pants are not for you) and ‘limiting’ yourself, and your style when it’s not necessary.

Many women pigeon hole themselves into a prescribed way of dressing and thereby limit their options and often squelch their sense of delight. Their wardrobe becomes functional and one-dimensional — devoid of any personal style and their boredom level escalates.

What is at the root of a one-dimensional wardrobe?

• For some it is a fear of stepping out and being noticed as opposed to blending in or trying to disappear.
• Some worry they will make a fashion mistake and look silly. It’s understandable that someone would rather look and feel boring than silly, but it is rare that most women will push the envelope to the point of looking silly. Their worry is generally unnecessary. Unfortunately, anything outside the norm of what they usually wear feels so foreign that they lose perspective on whether it’s trendy, fashionable, cutting edge or none of the above. As a result, tried and true (or not so true but at least safe) wins out.
• And some women are so bound and determined to “find their style” that they hyper focus on certain designs to the exclusion of all else – “knowing” that they can’t wear those things – although not always knowing where that knowing came from (and it has often been received second or third hand at best).
• Still others try really hard but can’t quite seem to figure out how to make it all work and give up from sheer overwhelm and frustration.

I hear this from women all the time. “I can’t wear that,” or, “That doesn’t work on my body,” or, “I’ve tried that before, and it just doesn’t look good.”

Sure, sometimes it’s true but honestly, more often than not it is a self-imposed fashion rule. And, most fashion rules have an exception from time to time.

The next step is: How do you move into a wardrobe that has more personality and dimension without it feeling overwhelming or making lots of expensive mistakes?

Let me go back to the Alberto Makali top I eyed. I was intrigued enough to try it on. Sure, in general I am not the bohemian type but I also know that it’s all about how you interpret any given style, bohemian included.

The top is beautiful! I did buy it.

• It fit me perfectly.
• The colors are beautiful and great on me.
• The top has that ethereal, slightly bohemian quality but in an exquisite, elegantly beautiful way.
• I wear it with more structured pants to keep me from feeling swallowed up by too much airy fabric.
• I wear it when my mood (and the temperature) is more relaxed, sultry and quiet.
• And, I got it at Nordstrom Rack so if I had made a mistake (better to make an occasional mistake than feel restricted by too many self-imposed rules), it would not have been an expensive one.

How can you translate this experience for yourself?

• Pay attention to what catches your eye. It never hurts to try something on. The worst case scenario is that it looks terrible or doesn’t fit right (and can’t be tailored) and you take it off and put it back on the rack. No harm done and often something valuable learned.
• Complete the outfit before you decide. Tossing something on with a pair of sweat pants or sneakers and a skirt will not help you visualize (unless you’re very good at it!) whether the garment has potential. Try to complete the outfit as closely as possible in the dressing room to give you as much of an idea of how it will look finished as possible.
• Listen to your heart and be practical all at the same time. Always imagine where you’ll wear the garment and how it will fit into your wardrobe and lifestyle. AND, if it is something you absolutely love, be adventurous. Hey, although mostly I wear the Alberto Makali top casually and socially, I might choose to wear it to a picnic or baseball game (not that I went to either this summer) if I felt inspired to and it made me feel good – who says I can’t!

Each of us has different parts to our personalities and part of the fun of getting dressed is not only liking the way we look (of course) but also expressing each part of our personality that desires to be expressed in a heart-felt, authentic way. Sure, there are parameters determined by your body type, your age (sometimes), and the particular occasion, but you get to put the spin on how you express your own individuality. Don’t let yourself get stuck in a rut or a hard and fast prescribed way of dressing. Exploring is part of what keeps it all interesting and fun!

Join me, Ginger Burr, a long-time self-described health nut and image consultant, and Marion Davis, a former serious meat eater and self-esteem guru as we explore the ins and outs of  being a vegan on our talk radio show “Vegan and the Living Is Easy,” — every other Monday evening at 8 pm(eastern)

http://www.totalimageconsultants.com/vegan-radio-diva.shtml

On Monday, Dec. 28, we are delighted to welcome Leanne Mai-ly Hilgart, founder of Vaute Couture.

If you have ever tried to find a stylish, cruelty-free winter coat, you know it has been the one hold-out to a truly “easy vegan” lifestyle. Well, not any more. Join us as we talk with award-winner, Leanne Mai-ly Hilgart, founder of Vaute Couture, the first and only vegan winter coat line to exist. We’ll discuss what prompted her to develop the line, what’s wrong with wool, and how being vegan does not mean you have to sacrifice style and much, much more. Continue reading…